NATURE IN A BOTTLE: WHAT ARE NATURAL PERFUMES?
Conventional perfumes often contain a variety of synthetic fragrances that are chemically produced. In contrast, natural cosmetic perfumes rely almost exclusively on fragrances from nature. But what exactly is a natural perfume and what makes it unique?
CONVENTIONAL PERFUMES WITH SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCES
As a rule, perfumes consist of a mixture of nature-identical, rarely naturally obtained, and synthetic fragrances. In modern perfumery, synthetically produced fragrance molecules such as Ambroxan, Cashmeran or Iso E Super are often used, which can achieve specific scents that would be difficult or impossible to achieve with natural fragrances. Esters are also chemical compounds that are often used in perfumes, such as benzyl acetate, which smells like jasmine, and linalyl acetate, which smells sweet and floral.
Synthetic molecules offer the advantage that they can be produced in large quantities and with consistent quality, making their use in perfume production more efficient and cost-effective.
It is often not clear from the ingredients of perfumes which molecule or other synthetic fragrance was used. Synthetic fragrances are listed as "Parfum (Fragrance)", which makes it difficult to identify the exact composition.
THE RISKS OF SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCES
While natural cosmetic perfumes consciously rely on natural ingredients and avoid harmful synthetic substances, this is often not the case with conventional perfumes. Many conventional fragrances can contain synthetic substances that are potentially harmful to health, such as phthalates, parabens, BHT, EDTA, formaldehyde, benzophenone, lyral, styrene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.
- Phthalates, such as diethyl phthalate (DEP), are often used as solvents and fixatives to make fragrances last longer. They are suspected of causing hormonal disruption and affecting reproductive function.
- Parabens, which are used as preservatives to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi, may have hormonal effects and increase the risk of breast cancer.
- BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) is used in perfumes as a preservative to extend the shelf life of the fragrances and prevent oxidation. It helps keep the product fresh and prevents the scent from changing or deteriorating. However, it can cause skin irritation and is considered potentially harmful to health in high concentrations.
- EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) is used in perfumes to bind metal ions that could otherwise destabilize the product. In doing so, EDTA helps to ensure the quality and durability of the perfume. EDTA is problematic because it is difficult to break down, can accumulate in water bodies, and can enter the environment, where it could affect ecosystems and harm aquatic life.
- Formaldehyde is rarely used directly in perfumes, but it can be present in small amounts as a preservative or through its derivatives such as formaldehyde donors. These substances help protect the product from microbes and extend shelf life. Formaldehyde can be of concern because it is considered a carcinogen and can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. It can also cause respiratory problems with long-term or high exposure and is classified as a health risk at higher concentrations.
- Benzophenones and their derivatives serve as UV filters to protect fragrances from sunlight, but they are also suspected of causing hormonal disorders and being carcinogenic.
- Styrene, a synthetic fragrance, is also considered potentially carcinogenic. Another problematic UV filter is Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, which can have hormonal effects and irritate the skin.
- Lyral is a synthetic fragrance in perfumes that gives a floral scent. However, it can cause allergic reactions and skin irritation, which is why its use has been restricted or banned in the EU since 2022.
These substances are used in varying amounts and their health effects are still being researched. Since the ingredient list on perfume packaging often only contains general terms such as "perfume" or "fragrance", it is difficult for consumers to identify harmful substances. Anyone who has concerns should therefore resort to perfumes from certified natural cosmetics that adhere to stricter guidelines regarding ingredients.
THE ESSENCE OF NATURAL PERFUMES
Natural perfumes, which are often found in natural cosmetics, consist mainly of essential oils extracted from plants. These essential oils come from various parts of the plant, such as flowers, leaves, bark, fruits, herbs or wood. However, natural tree resins such as frankincense, benzoin or galbanum are also used in perfume production. Natural alcohol that has not been denatured (or denatured) is used as a base. Conventional perfumes use denatured alcohol, which contains harmful additives to make it unusable for consumption.
Typical fragrances in essential oils are geraniol, linalool, eugenol or coumarin. These substances are naturally present in essential oils, but can also be produced synthetically. However, some people can be allergic to these substances, which is why you should always do your research before buying a perfume and test it on a small area of your skin if you have any concerns.
In the past, natural fragrances of animal origin were also very popular. Examples of these are ambergris, a substance from the digestive tract of the sperm whale, civet, a secretion from the civet cat, and musk, a secretion from the glands of the musk deer. However, the extraction of these substances is extremely unethical and fortunately now banned in many countries. However, there are now synthetic fragrances that imitate musk, ambergris or civet and are in no way inferior to the natural models in terms of quality and scent characteristics.
THE MULTI-LAYERED DEPTH OF NATURAL PERFUMES
In contrast to synthetic fragrances, natural perfumes are complex and multi-layered. They consist of countless different fragrance molecules. A single essential oil can contain up to 400 natural fragrance molecules, while a synthetic molecule only contains one fragrance molecule. This is where the true expertise of master perfumers comes into play, as the complexity and interaction of natural fragrance molecules is much more difficult to master than when "only" 10 or 20 molecules are mixed together.
Living fragrances as opposed to synthetic fragrances. Conventional perfumes with their one-dimensional scents cover your personality with a veil of consistent intensity. The beauty of the multi-dimensional, natural ingredients is that they develop on your skin and create a uniquely individual scent with your natural body chemistry. Natural perfumes have a slightly shorter shelf life, but never smell flat, penetrating or intrusive, but exude an intimate, multi-layered scent that constantly changes over the course of the day.
THE PRODUCTION AND EXTRACTION OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Essential oils are usually extracted by distillation or cold pressing. In distillation, the plant material is heated and the resulting vapors are condensed to extract the essential oil. In cold pressing, which is mainly used for citrus fruits, the peels of the fruit are mechanically pressed to extract the oil.
A CHANGE OF THINKING IN NATURAL COSMETICS?
In recent years, natural cosmetics have seen a shift in the acceptance of synthetic fragrances. Advances in synthetic chemistry allow for precisely mimicked fragrances with a lower environmental impact and a wider range of consistent properties.
This development reflects a growing understanding that the safety, effectiveness and sustainability of cosmetic products depend not only on their origin, but also on how they are manufactured. The growing acceptance of synthetic fragrances opens up new opportunities for creative and responsible product innovations in natural cosmetics.
BENEFITS OF NATURAL COSMETIC FRAGRANCES
Opting for a natural niche perfume has many advantages. Natural cosmetic perfumes are often more sustainable because they are made from organically grown plants and support environmentally friendly manufacturing processes. The manufacturers of natural cosmetic perfumes make sure to only use essential oil from plants that are not contaminated with pesticides.
In addition, niche fragrances from the natural cosmetics sector offer an authentic and genuine fragrance experience that develops individually on the skin. Although natural perfumes can also contain allergenic substances such as geraniol or linalool, some people prefer them because of their natural ingredients.
NATURAL FRAGRANCES: A STATEMENT OF QUALITY AND SUSTAINABILITY
Natural niche fragrances offer a wonderful alternative to synthetic fragrances. They combine the beauty and diversity of nature in a small bottle and allow us to experience the power of plants in a new way. With their complex, multi-layered scents and their ecological benefits, they are an asset for anyone who values naturalness, sustainability and quality.
