Nature in a bottle: What are natural perfumes?

As a rule, perfumes consist of a mixture of nature-identical, rarely naturally obtained, and synthetic fragrances. In modern perfumery, synthetically produced fragrance molecules such as Ambroxan, Cashmeran or Iso E Super are often used, which can achieve specific scents that would be difficult or impossible to achieve with natural fragrances. Esters are also chemical compounds that are often used in perfumes, such as benzyl acetate, which smells like jasmine, and linalyl acetate, which smells sweet and floral.

Synthetic molecules offer the advantage that they can be produced in large quantities and with consistent quality, making their use in perfume production more efficient and cost-effective.

It is often not clear from the ingredients of perfumes which molecule or other synthetic fragrance was used. Synthetic fragrances are listed as "Parfum (Fragrance)", which makes it difficult to identify the exact composition.

While natural perfumes consciously rely on natural ingredients and avoid harmful synthetic substances, this is often not the case with conventional perfumes. Many conventional fragrances can contain synthetic substances that are potentially harmful to health, such as phthalates, parabens, BHT, EDTA, formaldehyde, benzophenone, lyral, styrene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

Phthalatesas diethyl phthalate (DEP), are often used as solvents and fixatives to make the fragrance last longer. They are suspected of causing hormonal disorders and impairing reproductive capacity.

Parabens, which are used as preservatives to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi, may have hormonal effects and increase the risk of breast cancer.

BHT (butylhydroxytoluene) is used in perfumes as a preservative to extend the shelf life of fragrances and prevent oxidation. It helps keep the product fresh and prevents the fragrance from changing or deteriorating. However, it can cause skin irritation and is considered potentially harmful to health in high concentrations.

EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) is used in perfumes to bind metal ions that could otherwise destabilize the product. In doing so, EDTA helps to ensure the quality and durability of the perfume. EDTA is problematic because it is difficult to break down, can accumulate in water bodies and can enter the environment, where it could affect ecosystems and harm aquatic life.

formaldehyde has been banned as an ingredient in the EU since 2019 because it has been classified as carcinogenic and skin sensitizing and can therefore pose an increased health risk to consumers. However, so-called formaldehyde releasers at a concentration of less than 0,05 percent can still be found in cosmetics such as perfumes. These substances release small amounts of formaldehyde to protect the product from microbes and extend its shelf life.

Benzophenone and its derivatives serve as UV filters to protect the fragrances from sunlight, but they are also suspected of causing hormonal disorders and being carcinogenic.
Styrene, a synthetic fragrance, is also considered potentially carcinogenic. Another problematic UV filter is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamatewhich can have hormonal effects and irritate the skin.

lyral is a synthetic fragrance in perfumes that gives a floral scent. However, it can cause allergic reactions and skin irritation, which is why its use has been restricted or banned in the EU since 2022.

These substances are used in varying amounts and their health effects are still being researched. Since the ingredient list on perfume packaging often only contains general terms such as "perfume" or "fragrance", it is difficult for consumers to identify harmful substances. Anyone who has concerns should therefore resort to perfumes from certified natural cosmetics that adhere to stricter guidelines regarding ingredients.

Natural perfumes, which are often found in the natural cosmetics sector, consist mainly of essential oils extracted from plants. These essential oils come from different parts of the plant, such as flowers, leaves, bark, fruits, herbs or wood. However, natural tree resins such as frankincense, benzoin or galbanum are also used in perfume production. Some (few) natural perfume brands use natural alcohol as a base that has not been denatured (or denatured). Denatured alcohol contains additives to make it unsuitable for consumption. It can cause irritation on very sensitive skin.

Essential oils are usually extracted by distillation or cold pressing. In distillation, the plant material is heated and the resulting vapors are condensed to extract the essential oil. In cold pressing, which is mainly used for citrus fruits, the peels of the fruit are mechanically pressed to extract the oil.

Typical fragrances in essential oils are geraniol, linalool, eugenol or coumarin. These substances are naturally present in essential oils, but can also be produced synthetically. However, some people can be allergic to these substances, which is why you should always inform yourself before buying a perfume and test it on a small area of ​​the skin if you have any concerns.

In the past, natural fragrances of animal origin were also very popular. Examples include ambergris, a substance from the digestive tract of the sperm whale, civet, a secretion from the civet cat, and musk, a secretion from the glands of the musk deer. However, the extraction of these substances is extremely unethical and fortunately now banned in many countries. However, there are many synthetic fragrances that imitate musk, ambergris or civet and are in no way inferior to the natural models in terms of quality and scent characteristics.

Opting for a natural niche perfume has many advantages. Natural cosmetic perfumes are often more sustainable because they are made from organically grown plants and support environmentally friendly manufacturing processes. The manufacturers of natural cosmetic perfumes make sure to only use essential oil from plants that are not contaminated with pesticides.

In addition, fragrances from the natural cosmetics sector offer an authentic and genuine fragrance experience that develops individually on the skin. Although natural perfumes can also contain allergenic substances such as geraniol or linalool, some people prefer them because of their natural ingredients.

Natural perfumes offer a wonderful alternative to synthetic fragrances. They combine the beauty and diversity of nature in a small bottle and allow us to experience the power of plants in a new way. With their complex, multi-layered scents and their ecological benefits, they are an asset for anyone who values ​​naturalness, sustainability and quality.