Top note, heart note, base note: This is the fragrance pyramid of a perfume
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Reading time 7 min
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Reading time 7 min
Why does the first spray of a perfume often smell intensely of bergamot – and after a few minutes it suddenly smells only of roses? The answer lies in the various components of the Fragrance pyramid: the top notes, heart notes, and base notes. The fragrance pyramid tells us how a fragrance unfolds throughout the day and why perfumes are perceived very differently on the skin at different stages of development.
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The fragrance pyramid typically consists of three components: the top note, which we perceive first, the middle note, which lingers on the skin, and the base note, which concludes the fragrance. These fragrance levels differ in the volatility and size of their molecules. The top note contains light, quickly evaporating compounds, the middle note contains medium-volatile ones, and the base note contains heavier, long-lasting molecules that are often somewhat larger.
For natural fragrance components such as essential oils This multi-stage effect is particularly noticeable because they consist of a multitude of different molecules, each of which has its own evaporation rate and often develops in several phases.
Bulgarian rose essential oil is a prime example of the complex development of natural fragrances. It contains a variety of different odor molecules, including citronellol, geraniol, and nerol, which evaporate at different rates. This allows the fragrance to develop on multiple levels: It begins with a fresh top note, develops into a characteristic floral heart, and ends with a warm, almost balsamic base note.
Therefore, natural scents Particularly vibrant and complex, as the transition from top note to heart note is often smooth and multifaceted. Synthetic fragrance notes, on the other hand, impress with their even and consistent fragrance development, which tends to remain stable throughout a fragrance phase such as the heart note.
This means: Yes, we can actually smell the progression of the scent pyramid. With a little attention, the individual phases can be consciously perceived. While it takes a bit of practice to distinguish between the different scents, over time, your sense of smell becomes more refined. It becomes especially fascinating when you pay attention to the changes that occur due to skin contact, time, and body temperature.
The top note is like the first smile you give someone: fleeting, yet meaningful. These notes shape the first impression we perceive of a perfume and significantly influence whether the scent appeals to us. Top notes typically linger on the skin for about ten to fifteen minutes before giving way to the heart notes.
Often the top note starts with a bang of sparkling citrus notes, tingling pepper, juicy fruits, aromatic coffee beans, spicy cardamom, or tart fig leaves. This is no coincidence, as the top note consists of rather light and volatile molecules that evaporate quickly, immediately enter the air, and are thus perceived first. To ensure they are still impressive, they are usually dosed intensively.
An archipelago of sensations. The promise of a sunset. Magnificent and radiant. Aromatic sage, explosive ginger, delicious vanilla. Immortal. Captivating. Prismatic. Shimmering shades under the moonlight, free and inviting. Mysterious and full of depth. Saffron robes... passions. Pride.
A journey with Elisiré To the Orient. The beauty of a sunset in the imperial garden. Grounded in ancient tradition and as solemn as the return of a soldier from distant lands. Full of humility and silence.
The heart note, the central component in the fragrance pyramid, is the heart of a perfume. It lingers on the skin for several hours and defines the fragrance's true character. After the top note has faded, the heart note unfolds, connecting the light top notes with the deep base notes.
The molecules of the heart notes are less volatile, which means they unfold more slowly and remain perceptible longer. Floral notes such as roses, jasmine, iris and ylang-ylang, resins such as labdanum and elemi, warm accords such as cinnamon and vanilla, but also some fruity notes are particularly common in the heart note and give the perfume its personality.
Clary Fig combines the sweet, complex character of clary sage and fig with refreshing citrus notes, creamy notes of milk, and robust caraway. The warm, soothing base note of musk and sandalwood gives the perfume a surprising, striking sophistication.
This unisex perfume by Carl Kling Parfums embodies the essence of Scandinavian minimalism and avant-garde art in a unique fragrance. The creation surprises with an unexpected blend that immediately catches the eye—as clear and unmistakable as the name itself.
Clary Fig was developed in collaboration with master perfumer Antoine Lie.
The base note, sometimes also called the fundamental note, forms the foundation of a perfume, anchoring the scent on the skin and ensuring its longevity. It owes its longevity to the special structure of its fragrance molecules. These are often larger and less volatile than those of the top or middle notes. They require more energy to evaporate and therefore remain on the skin or clothing longer—sometimes even for days.
Many base notes initially appear very intense, like a smokier Leather accents, sweet amber, rich patchouli, or earthy-woody vetiver, however, soften over time and fade into the background. Only in their interplay with the heart and top notes does the complete overall picture of the perfume emerge.
Cyan Nori by Abel Perfume is sweet, salty, and tangy—juicy mandarin orange and white peach combined with salty deep sea. Inspired by the vastness of the ocean.
Famous for its moisturizing amino acids and a host of therapeutic benefits, Nori (seaweed) blurs the line between functionality and beauty in this bold, modern niche fragrance.
Natural musk forms the backbone and gives it great longevity and a sparkling quality that wears wonderfully on the skin.
The magic of anticipation, the intention of something, consciously without benefit, a first touch, neon light, a tingling sensation up the spine...
Yes, there are! An example of this is Molecular fragrances, which contain only fragrance molecules such as Iso E Super, Ambroxan, or Cashmeran, as well as alcohol and water. They often have a reduced, modern, and particularly skin-friendly effect. However, individual fragrance facets can change over the course of the day. Depending on skin chemistry, environment, and perception, certain nuances will sometimes become more pronounced, sometimes more subtle.
Many perfumes combine natural or nature-identical fragrances with the aforementioned synthetic molecules. These impart woody, citrus, amber, fruity, or floral facets to the scent and can specifically highlight or intensify individual notes in the fragrance pyramid. At the same time, they enhance the natural skin scent and ensure that the fragrance unfolds its own individual, personal radiance for each person.
Some perfume manufacturers list their fragrance notes without explicitly assigning them to a place in the fragrance pyramid. This can have various reasons: Firstly, some modern synthetic perfumes, especially Molecular fragrances, deliberately composed so that they unfold not strictly according to the classic pyramidal pattern, but rather linearly or in wave structures. On the other hand, brands sometimes want to emphasize an emotional fragrance description and focus less on the technical structure.
No 07 Elixir Isotopique is Frau Tonis first molecule perfume. Through contact with the skin, this perfume unfolds a unique, individual scent. It envelops you with a subtle aura and provides a special fragrance experience.
Warm aromas of ambroxan and cedarwood give this fragrance a light golden glow. Stubborn, purple violet blossoms join in triumphantly, as if in a frenzy. No. 07 Elixir Isotopique is a fascinating olfactory experience. That's totally me. That's my personal signature scent.
Ambroxan is a synthetic fragrance with a characteristic warm, woody and amber-like aroma. An Ambroxan molecule perfume creates a long-lasting, unique and individual fragrance signature that exudes deep and rich notes.
At the LayeringWhen several perfumes are applied one on top of the other, different scents mix together, which can lead to surprising scent progressions. Top, middle and base notes often develop differently when they interact with each other than with a single fragrance. Certain notes can enhance or overlap each other, while others are subdued. For example, the fresh, aquatic top note of one perfume can be emphasized with fruity notes from another fragrance, but can be masked by spicy notes. The result is an individual scent progression that develops dynamically on the skin. Sometimes surprising, but always unique.
The fragrance pyramid explains why perfumes change over time, from the fresh top note to the deep base note. It helps us perceive fragrances more consciously and classify them better. However, not every fragrance follows this structure: Many modern compositions rely on linear or unusual progressions. What remains crucial is how a Perfume unfolds on your skin and whether it has that certain something for you.